How to Slide on a Longboard

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The first slide to master is the 180 Coleman slide. From there, you can add your own style and tweak it to make it your own. Before attempting slides, get comfortable carving on hills with some decent speed. You’ll need enough speed to get the board around 180 degrees. Check out all the tools you’ll need to get sliding…

What You Will need for Longboard Slides

How to Longboard Slide

  1. Get some speed by pushing 6-8 times with one foot.  It’s scary at first, but enough speed is necessary to slide a full 180 degrees. Place your pedaling foot back on the board and bend your knees. Your feet should be wider than your shoulders. Prepare to slide. 
  2. Initiate a toe side carve. Bend your knees at the point where you’re crouching on the board. Place one hand on the side of the board positioned between the legs. Another option is to reach one hand up toward the sky to maintain balance. Place the other hand on the ground, reaching backward, opposite to the way in which your toes are pointed. 
  3. To get the slide going, carve heel-side. This is the most difficult part of the slide, but practice it and soon it should come naturally. There are many ways to perform the actual 180, but the simplest way is to look backward and turn shoulders and hips to 180 degrees. Put most of your weight on the front foot, about 60%. Use your back foot to force the back of the board outward with the shoulders. It might take several tries of only making it 90 degrees, but commit to 180 degrees and you’ll get it before too long.

Tips for a 180 Coleman Slide

  • Loosen trucks – Looser trucks will allow you to carve into your slide.
  • Go Faster! – A little more speed gives you the necessary momentum to complete a 180 degree slide.
  • Find the Right Spot – Look for smooth, clean pavement free of cracks and gravel. A good, steep hill will help you gain speed. Most importantly, secure a spot with very little traffic!
  • Properly distribute weight – There should be more weight on the front foot (about 60%), while the back foot is used to force the back of the board outward.
  • Check your wheels – Small, round-lipped wheels make it easy to break traction and start sliding. Also, keep in mind that wheels will slide more easily after they’re broken in than when they’re brand new.slide
  • Keep Center of Gravity Low – Bending your knees will make it easier to push out into a slide. Should you bail, the distance between your body and the pavement will be smaller!
  • Tag along with the good guys – Find some mates who are more skilled than you at sliding. They can give you tips and help you progress.
  • Wear Safety Gear – A helmet and longboard slide gloves are a must. Knee and elbow pads are highly recommend for all skill levels. You’ll be more comfortable pushing yourself if you feel more comfortable falling.

Easy Longboard Tricks

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You’re feeling pretty comfortable on the board. Cruising around, turning, gaining speed and making sharper turns are like second nature. It’s time for some basic longboard tricks to keep the progression going. Check out our top 5 favorite easy longboard tricks…

  1. Cross-Stepping – A iconic trick in longboarding (as in surfing), mastering cross-stepping will lock in your confidence and finesse on your board. Start on the grass. Stand with both feet on the back of the board. For regular riders, cross your right foot over the left, then sweep your left foot around again. As you become more balanced, try cross stepping all the way to the nose of the board and then back again.longboard-hammond-piper-40-free-style
  2. Ghostride Heelflip – First, get on your board and start to push (slowly!). Then, bring your left foot off and bring it near the board (toe side), as close as you can. Then, lift your right foot from the board, bringing it toe side and quickly flip the board behind you until it flips over. After this, jump up with both of your feet and jump onto the board to the other side of you. Practice doing this to get it right, it may take you a little while. When done, you can start to learn different variations on the board and ride like a pro!
  3. Shuvit – Perform a shuvit by jumping into the air without spinning, and spinning, and your skateboard spins beneath you. Put your front foot in the middle of the board and back foot on the tail. Bend your legs, then move the board 90 degrees. Let go with front foot, then hop it back on completing 180 degrees.
  4. No Comply 180 – Put your front foot in the middle of the board and back foot on the tail. With some speedheadline (one push or so), step your front foot off the board (heelside) and allow the back foot to pop the board up. With the back foot on the tail, scoop the board around 180 degrees. Right before the board touches the ground, put front back on the board and ride away switch.
  5. Fakie Frontside Pivot – Put front foot on the nose of the board and back foot in the middle of the board. Press nose down on the board and swing the tail of the board around 180 degrees.

Shop The-House selection of Longboards.

How To Stay In Shape For Winter Sports

Fitness-for-winterHopefully that light bulb in your head has gone off like the time you awakened in a cold sweat remembering that school project you had 6 months to complete is due tomorrow. Now that you’ve spent most of your summer lying on the beach, drinking malt beverages and munching on foods that are not part of the FDA’s dietary plan, it’s time to begin that dreaded training program. No worries, your inflated midsection and wobbly legs will be magazine ready in just a few short months

Follow these simple suggestions and you’ll be prepared for the upcoming winter season.  What you are about to read are simple suggestions to help guide you in the right direction, sorta like how Yoda guided Luke Skywalker.  Always consult with a physician and qualified trainer before starting any workout program. Strength + Balance = Core Competency

OK, you’ve made it to this section, so your motivation is somewhat apparent.  Figuring out which sport-specific strength and conditioning exercises to do is a battle in itself.  When starting a new program, take it slowly and work up to the desired fitness level.  Keep it simple for now.  A continual, basic workout program will make your snowboarding or skiing season easier, thus reducing nagging injuries (strains, pulls, etc.).  One must never forget, the turtle has always beaten the hare.  How’s that for peace of mind?

Peace through strength.  Focus on muscular endurance and strength training.  Choose exercises that work multiple muscles, like squats, deadlifts, cleans.  Trampoline exercises build lower-body strength and fast-twitch muscle explosiveness.  These are a few exercises that condition the major muscle groups and will help you to endure the rigors of a long winter season. Balance is strength…literally!

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Balance is to snow sports as peanut butter is to jelly l.  Keep your knees out of braces by strengthening the large muscles in your legs: quadriceps, glutes and hamstrings.  If you’re willing to work hard, fast results will come. Mix body-weight (i.e., mountain climbers, wall sits, push-ups, pull-ups) and free-weight exercises (i.e., bench press, incline press, squats, curls,) for optimal results.  Ensure you incorporate a balance board or Bosu ball for an even greater sense of balance.  After following a basic workout routine, transition to more of a specific training regime to condition the mind, body and spirit.

Let’s get to the core of it.  Your core strength is uber-important in skiing and snowboarding.  So if your core is weak, odds are that you won’t be ready to conquer Kitzbuhel or even the bunny hill for that matter. Participation in activities that incorporate core strengthening, balance and endurance are critical in helping your postural alignment.  Activities like SUPing and biking are great for strength, balance and endurance, while skateboarding is great for flexibility and precision. Oh, and let’s not forget  running, which is excellent for endurance and strengthening the knees. 

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Stay Healthy, My Friend Injuries, sminguries.  They are merely unintended or intended consequences (depending on how daring you are) of doing the activities we love; it’s sorta like taking one for the team.  But there are, however, certain proactive things you can do to at least minimize injuries. (such as: Helmets, knee pads and elbow pads) Warm-up and stretch-out!  Your excitement may be your downfall.  So don’t rush from the car to the slopes without first doing some warm-up exercises. Take at least 15 minutes to warm-up to increase body temperature. Healthy boarder says, “Warm muscle are pliable muscles; cold muscles are brittle muscles.” Do you fall like you have rigamortis?  Knowing how to fall is one of the best ways to protect your knees and other body parts.  If you feel yourself going down, do not sit.  Instead, go with the fall, keeping your knees flexed and landing on your side.  Use your poles to stop your slide rather than trying to stand up to regain momentum. If your first reaction is to put your knee, thumb or elbow down, you’re more prone to injury. Quite while you’re ahead!  Heard that before?  Fatigue is the enemy of common sense.  Almost 90 percent of injuries happen during the last run.  Skifucius says, “If you’re not fresh, get the hell off the mountain.” The End confucius-quotes-af

How To Adjust Avid BB5 Disc Brakes

You’ll need a 5mm hex wrench and a Torx T-25 driver. Let’s start with the assumption that the rotor, caliper, and cable are properly installed on the bike, and that the rotor is true.

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1. Loosen the (2) black CPS mounting bolts with a 5mm hex wrench to a point where the caliper body can move freely.

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2. Loosen the inboard pad adjustment knob using a Torx T-25 driver.

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3. Slide a business card between the outboard, fixed brake pad and the rotor (be sure the biz card is between the outboard fixed pad and the rotor, not the inboard adjustable pad and the rotor), then tighten the pad adjustment knob until the rotor and business card are snugly clamped between the brake pads (you should not be able to pull out the business card). This aligns and centers the caliper over the rotor while leaving a business-card-sized gap on the fixed side.

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4. With the business card still in place, re-tighten both CPS bolts to lock the caliper in place.

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5. Loosen the pad adjustment knob and remove the business card.

6. Tighten the pad adjustment knob until the pad just barely touches the rotor, then back off one click to eliminate pad/rotor contact.

This method is more precise than the method outlined in the Avid BB5 Instruction Manual. It perfectly aligns and centers the caliper body and brake pads over the rotor. I’ve found it to be the most consistent way to minimize lever throw and ensure full engagement when using BB5 road calipers and road levers. And once you’ve  done it a couple of times, it takes all of 5 minutes.

Full credit for this method goes to Tim Grahl at Blue Collar Mountain Biking. I’ve only reproduced it here to make sure it’s available for our readers. —Alan

Style Guide: 2014 Men’s Spring Fashion

Style Guide 2014 Men's Spring Fasion

Men’s Spring Fashion

It feels great to shed some layers after piling them on throughout winter.  Spring is a transitional season to freshen up a wardrobe and change the pace of life.  This is the first Style Guide of many installments; enjoy some of our favorite pieces that rolled out recently.

1 dc-duster-ls-shirt-indigo-11-zoom1. DC Duster Shirt

There are articles of clothing that stand the test of time, one of them is the oxford shirt.  The DC Duster Shirt has a timeless design with a modern approach.  Unlike your father’s casual dress shirts the DC Duster has a slim fit that looks great tucked in or out.  This 100% cotton beauty has a rich indigo color with perfectly contrasting buttons and a button down collar.  It’ll be the most versatile shirt in your collection that you can dress up with a blazer for a date and wear with jeans getting beers with the boys.  [PURCHASE]

1 - volcom-killingit-cap-khki-13-zoom2. Volcom Killing It Cap

Everyone and there mothers know that 5 panel hats are what the cool kids are wearing.  The design has slowly been emerging from the 80’s and the one size fits all adjustable Volcom Killing It Cap is at the forefront of the fight.  The 100% cotton khaki color looks great with a mounted heat embossed leather logo patch.   The best thing about the Volcom Killing it Cap is the fit; it’s flawless – it’s not to deep and not too shallow.  [PURCHASE]

1 - matix-gripper-twill-pants-rust-13-zoom3. Matix Gripper Pants

The slim straight fit of the 5 pocket Matix Gripper Pants is relaxed enough to offer room in thighs and knees while having a slim leg opening that looks great with any footwear.  The detailing of the 98% cotton 2% elastane twill fabric matches the intricate Matix logo placement on the buttons, pockets, and rivets.  Of all the skate lifestyle brands making pants Matix is ahead of the pack with the Gripper Pants by far.  [PURCHASE]

1 - poler-field-pack-grn-13-zoom4. Poler Field Backpack

The simple design of the Poler Field Pack combined with it’s versatility make the bag appealing. The camo colorway’s 1000D Campdura fabric is as abrasion resistant as they come and it’s perfect for urban adventures or deep forest hiking.  The internal soft 420D nylon fabic protectively sports a padded laptop sleeve and whopping of 14.5L of volume.  With fully adjustable shoulder straps (duh), exaggerated zipper, and a drawstring top access flap this Field Pack has a heritage look that stays connected to style were every it ends up.  [PURCHASE]

1-northface-bernalchukka-sh-minkbrwn-brtshkhki-14-1-zoom5. The North Face Bernal Chukka Boots

Trudge through anything on earth with the The North Face Bernal Chukka Boots.  The waterproof full grain leather upper is rugged enough for trekking through wooded trerrain yet refined with simple lines for the city life.  The lightly padded gusseted tongue provides comfort along with the Vibram CHRISTY sole.  The Bernal has a vintage american look that will look great on your feet now and in 20 years.  [PURCHASE]

1 - electric-fw01-nato-watch-whtolv-13-zoom6. Electic FW01 Nato Watch

With a complete rebranding Electric takes a tick into timepieces.  The Electic FW01 Nato Watch is a classic field watch with modern twists and 3 hand Japanese quartz movement.  High contrast between the hands and dial make for easy time telling and the second hand’s lighting bolt shape is a well thought through touch.  The 40mm face is a great size for making a subtle statement to those looking to notice details above and below the water (Water Resistant to 600 ft.).  [PURCHASE]

1 - ashbury-griffin-spanky-sngls-brwntortbrwn-zoom7. Ashbury Griffin Sunglasses

The James Dean cool Ashbury Griffin Sunglasses are a show stopper.  The hand crafted acetate frames cradle the Carl Zeiss CR-39 Lens and provide 100% UVA & UVB protection.  Adjustable nose bridges ensure a proper fit and the stainless steel optical hinges are bombproof.  Look better than you already do and get the Griffins.  [PURCHASE]

1 - stance-sockmonkey-socks-brwn-12-zoom8. Stance Sock Monkey Socks

If there’s one thing that gives confidence in a day it’s the comfort of good socks.  The Stance Sock Monkey Socks will be the best socks in the drawer.  A 80% combed cotton, 12% polyester, and 8% spandex never felt better.  Great socks make a difference and with a deep heel pocket and elastic arch support the Monkey will keep your feet smiling.  [PURCHASE]

Benefits of Bike Commuting Infographic

Whether it’s to save money, lose weight, get exercise, or protect the environment, the reasons people bike to work are as varied as the bikes they ride. And people are seeing the benefits. Since 2001, the number of bike commuters has more than doubled, more bike paths are being created, and there is even a bike commuter tax benefit. And there are those of us that don’t need a reason – we just love to ride bikes.

If you’re not sold on bike commuting yet, check out our stunning infographic on the benefits of commuting by bike to work.

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Benefits of Bike Commuting – An infographic by the team at The-House

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Benefits of Bike Commuting – An infographic by the team at The-House

How To: Carry a SUP

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Transporting a SUP

First, you’ll need to get the board from your house to the water, which typically involves a car ride. A roof rack works perfect. To protect the board, it’s best to use a bar pad on the rack. It’s best to stack the board on the roof with the fin up, towards the front. Surf-specific straps that won’t crush the foam on the board will allow you to strap it down. If you have a truck with a flatbed, be sure to put the board in a protective travel bag or to surround it with padding.

Once you’ve reached your destination, it’s time to bring this monster to the water! The vast majority boards have carrying handles these days to make transport a cinch. Just put the board under one arm and grab the handle. If it doesn’t have a handle, overhead carry with hands on both side rails will do the trick.

 

Carrying a SUP Overview

  1. When lifting a board, bend your knees and keep your back straight.
  2. Beware of wind when carrying your SUP, and carry your board on the downwind side.
  3. To get board to a head carry, start on one end, lift, and walk your hands to the center of the board.
  4. Be aware of your blindspot and wind when shoulder carrying a SUP.

 

How To: Paddle Board Turning Tips

Turning on a stand up paddle board is an essential skill to make the most of your SUP experience on the water. It also adds to the fun factor and excitement of paddling! If you are a beginner, it is important to first master your balance, change directions on the board, and finally be able to turn correctly and efficiently. With a little practice, persistence, and determination you’ll turning like a pro in no time. Check it out…

Proper Feet Positioning
Begin by placing the board in the water. Beginners can first kneel on the center of the board to get the feel of the board. Once you stand up, find balancing point of the board which is right in the center of the paddle board. Your feet should always be pointing forward toward the nose, about shoulder width apart. Two things can happen if you don’t stand in the center. If you are standing too far forward, the nose will start to sink as you stroke. If you are standing too far back, then you will drag the tail and therefore move slower. Your knees should be slightly bent with hips aligned. Avoid bending from the midsection. Once you have your feet and knees properly positioned, you are ready to learn to steer!

Steering a Stand Up Paddle Board
Crawl before you walk, right? The same rule applies to paddle boarding – steer before you turn! Beginners should always start on a calm body of water with little waves or wind. Trust us. This will help nail down your techniques with little frustration or fatigue. Steering is actually pretty simple. Paddle on the right side of the board with your left hand on the handle to turn left. Switch your hands and paddle on the left to turn right.  Once you get the hang of stroke steering, practice moving your center of balance with your hips over to the side you want to move in. Keeping your knees bent and your back upright, place more weight on the foot that’s on the turning side.

Turning a Stand Up Paddle Board

Now that you’re a steering master, it’s time to learn some various turning techniques. You can certainly ‘steer’ your way to make a 180 degree turn, but how about a quick turn in the opposite directions? Your friends will be impressed and quick turns will up your game!

Sidestroke

The most basic of turns, the sidestroke is used the most often. Keeping strokes quick and short, paddle on the opposite side for which you wish to turn. This style of turning takes up more surface area on the water, so make sure you’re clear! To bring the board around more quickly, pull the blade back away from the board rather than pulling it parallel with the board. Once you’re heading in your desired direction, begin paddling on the opposite side to straighten out.
Back Paddle

A much faster turn, the back paddle will be one of your favorites once you get it down.  To initiate the turn, tightly grasp the paddle and dip your blade into the water on the same side that you want the board to turn towards.  This will begin to bring the board round in the right direction. Once momentum ceases, begin to paddle backwards on the same side to continue the turn. Once the board has turned about 90 degrees or slightly more, begin to paddle normally on the other side to straighten the board out. Now you’re ready to cruise!
Pivot Turn

The most advanced of turns, the pivot turn is the fastest way to turn your board around. It’s most useful if you’re surfing and trying to pull yourself into a wave. You’ll need to turn your board 180 degrees in a hurry to catch the most waves! First, you’ll need to get your weight back in order to lift the nose out of the water. Turn your body sideways with your toes facing the rail, and put more weight on your back foot. Make quick strokes on the opposite side that you want to turn your stand up paddle board. For maximum leverage and rotation, put the blade in the water away from your body, and then pull it in towards the tail of the board. The board should turn around fairly quickly with the nose in the air during the turn. You’re likely to fall in the water a few times while mastering this baby, so have fun with it!

As mentioned earlier, practice is the key to feeling comfortable with your new turning techniques. Before too long, all of these turns will be second nature and you’ll be having more fun than ever on your board. You’ll also notice that the back paddle and pivot turn will work your arms and upper body a little more. Bonus!

Shop The House for paddle boards.

 

Stand Up Paddle Boarding: The Forward Stroke

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Stand Up Paddle Boarding: The Forward Stroke

Alright! Sweet new stand up paddle board. Check. Paddle. Check. New trunks. Check. Polarized sunglasses. Check. A pristine lake lined with birch trees. Check.  Now it’s time to hit the water and soak in every moment of summer! Although paddle boarding looks simple enough, you don’t want to be that guy on the lake flailing around using inefficient paddling strokes.

The forward stroke is the basic stroke that every paddler must have on lock down before steering, turning, racing, or surfing. First, find your balancing point on your board in the water. Trust us. Don’t try paddling until you’re fully centered and balanced. Get comfortable on your board. The balancing sweet spot is center of the board. Stand with your body facing the nose, feet parallel to one another, knees slightly bent and feet hip width distance apart. Never bend from your torso or your waist. You’ll lose your balance and worse, you’ll look like am ammeter!

Next, you’ll need to grasp the paddle correctly. Firmly grasp the handle with one hand and place your other hand in a comfortable place on the shaft. Depending on your anatomy, the hand placement on the shaft will slightly vary from person to person.

Finally, it’s time to paddle! Paddling involves alternating 4-5 strokes per side in order to move straight ahead. If you only paddle on the right, you’ll board will continue to turn left. When paddling on the right side, your left hand will be on the handle. When you switch to the left side, your hands should also reverse with your right hand on the handle. Your upper shoulder should lead the way while using your stomach muscles to pull with each stroke. Once again keep an eye on the movement of the blade. This will help keep your paddle board straight as your paddle.

As you paddle, remember to keep one hand over the other. As you use your paddle to stroke along the water, make sure the paddle is sliding alongside the board with every stroke. The key is to keep your blade as close to the center of the board as possible. This will make turning a lot easier when it’s time to change directions. If your board begins to work against you, try switching the position of your hands or paddling on the opposite side. Just remember to keep the proper posture with your back upright and knees slightly bent as you switch hands. That’s it, now get outside and have some fun!

Snowboarding Terms

Snowboard Terms

Do you think you have all of your snowboarding terminology on lock down? Or are you looking to pick up your first set up and want to be sure you’re ahead of the game when you take your first lesson? Maybe you want to impress a car full of teenagers as you’re giving them a lift to the hill. Regardless, it’s not a bad idea to familiarize yourself with the most common words associated with snowboarding. Even for the veterans, you may pick up a few new terms, so check them out…

3, 5, 7, 9 – Acronyms for a 360, 540, 720 and 900 spin in the air.

50/50 – When the board rides straight down (nose first) a rail or box.

A

AASI – American Association of Snowboard Instructors.

Air – A jump or leap where the snowboard lifts off the ground.

Air-to-Fakie – A half pipe trick where the wall is approached riding forward, no rotation is made in the air, and the boarder lands riding backward (or fakie).

All-Mountain – Type of snowboard designed to ride any type of terrain – groomers, powder, park and half pipe.

B

Backcountry – Terrain outside of resort boundaries with no marked trails and natural obstacles like trees and cliffs.

Backside – A term originating from surfing, the direction in which you turn if you are traveling up a wave and turn so as you back faces the wave. In snowboarding, it is used to describe your direction of rotation in which the rider spins clockwise in the air if their left foot is facing down the hill (regular). It is the opposite of frontside.

Backside 180 – An aerial move where the rider makes a 180 degree rotatation off the jump leading with the heelside (clockwise for a regular stance and counterclockwise for goofy).

Backside Air – Any aerial maneuver performed on the backside wall of the half pipe

Boned Out – To straighten one or both legs during an aerial for extra style.

Baseplate – The bottom, flat part of the binding which includes the heel cup and fixes to the board via three or four holes. Burton also makes a a channel mounting system where the baseplate attaches with two screws on either side of the binding.

Base – The underside of the snowboard designed to glide across the snow. It is typically extruded or sintered.

Baseless Bindings – Snowboard bindings that don’t use a baseplate, so the boot sits directly on the snowboard. It enhances board feel and control, giving the rider a more natural foot-to-board feeling, similar to skateboarding.

Banked Slalom – A downhill slalom race course in which gate turns are set on snow banks. The Mount Baker Legendary Banked Slalom held every February is the most famous banked slalom course in the world.

Bevel– The angle of a snowboard’s steel edges. There are two bevels – the base bevel and the side edge bevel. The base bevel is the angle where the steel edge angles up from the flat base. The side bevel is is the angle the steel edge is tilted from the sidewall. The greater the base bevel, the faster the board.

Blindside – An advanced rotation in which the snowboarder is blind during takeoff or landing and must stretch to look over the shoulder.

Boardercross – A competition where participants race through turns, banks, obstacles and jumps in heats of 4-6 riders.

Bonk – To intentionally hit (or bonk) a non-snow object, like a tree stump, with the snowboard. A bonk is a type of trick.

Boost – To catch air off of a jump, half pipe or natural obstacle.

Butter – Leaning on the nose of the board (like a nose manual) and swing the tail of the board to the front.

Buttery – A term used to describe a snowboard with good flex.

C

Caballerial (Cab) – A halfpipe trick named after Steve Caballero (skateboard pro) which begins fakie, spins 360 degrees, and lands riding forward.

Camber – The amount of space beneath the center of a snowboard when it lays on a flat surface and its weight rests on the tip and tail. Camber gives a board spring and pop on groomed runs. Reverse camber or rocker is the opposite of camber where the weight rests on the center of the board, rather than the tip and tail when laying flat.

Cant – The angle at which either foot points inward or outward, which causes the knees bend toward or away from each other.

Carve – A perfect turn where the edge of the board digs into the snow, causing the rider to gain speed with each turn.

Centered Stance – A stance that is centered on the board when your bindings are mounted. The distance between the nose and the front binding is the same as that between the tail and the rear binding. A centered stance is preferred by riders who ride goofy and regular equally well.

Chatter – Vibration of the snowboard resulting from high speed, tight turns, and/or icy conditions. Chatter is undesirable and common with soft boards at high speeds.

Chute – A narrow strip of snow bordered by rocks, cliffs and tight trees.

Corduroy – The tracks left by a snowcat grooming a trail that looks like corduroy pants. Clean, fun turns are made on corduroy terrain.

Corkskrew – A an aerial fast and tight rotation in the half pipe or off of a jump.

Crail – A trick where the rear hand grabs the toe edge in front of the front foot while the rear leg is boned.

Crippler Air – A half pipe inverted aerial where the snowboarder spins a 180 degree flip. In other words, the rider approaches a halfpipe wall riding forward, becomes airborne, rotates 90 degrees, flips over in the air, rotates another 90 degrees, and lands riding forward.

Crossbone Method Air – A Method Air (front hand grabs heel edge between the bindings) where the back leg is boned.

Crooked Cop Air – Freeriding version of the mosquito air.

Cruiser Run – A mellow, smooth trail at a resort where the riders take it easy.

D

Dampening – Reducing chatter (vibration) to increase handling and control. Structural modifications can be made to a snowboard or bindings to increase dampening.

Delaminate – When the top sheet of your snowboard begins to chip or peel off typically resulting from a crash, long term use, a defect or poor care of the snowboard.

Detune – The process of dulling the edges of the snowboard. Most people detune the edges around the nose and tail so they do not catch in the snow.

Ding – A scratch or gouge in the base of the board. Dings can occur if a rider rides over a rock or hits a hard chunk of ice.

Directional Stance – A snowboard stance allowing one to ride differently in one direction than the other. In other words your bindings are mounted on the snowboard so the distance between the nose and the front binding is different from that between the tail and the rear binding. With your bindings set this way, you would ride more easily in your preferred direction (being goofy or regular).

Duckfooted – A stance angle in which the toes are pointed outward like a duck.

E

Edge – The smooth metal edges that run the perimeter of the snowboard.

Effective Edge – The length of steel edge on the snowboard that comes in contact with the snow when making turns. It is the effective part which is used to make a turn. A longer effective edge makes for faster riding, while shorter effective edge makes boards easier to turn and spin.

Eggflip – An Eggplant where the rider flips over in order to re-enter the pipe instead of rotating 180 degrees.

Eggplant – A 180 backside rotated invert in which the front hand is planted on the lip of the halfpipe wall.

Extruded Base – P-tex base of a snowboard created by extrusion of sheets. It is of lower quality, does not hold and absorb wax very well, and is less durable.

F

Faceplant – When a rider falls on his or her face.

Fakie – Riding backwards or with your non-dominant foot forward. Also referred to as ‘riding switch.’

Flail – A term used to describe out of control riding.

Flat Bottom – The flat area in a halfpipe between the two opposing transitional walls.

Flatland – Term used to describe tricks performed on a flat slope without obstacles.

Flex – Term used to describe the snowboard’s stiffness and pattern of how it flexes. It refers to longitudinal flex (flex of the length) and torsional flex (flex of the width).

Flying Squirrel Air – Bending at the knees and grabbing the heel edge of the snowboard with both hands with the front hand near the front foot, and the rear hand near the rear foot.

Forward Lean – The adjustable angle of degree to which the binding highbacks keep your ankles bent in a forward leaning position. Half pipe riders increase their forward lean to gain speed. Park riders prefer a more relaxed forward lean, if any at all.

Freeriding – Snowboarding on all types of terrain (groomers, powder, backcountry) for fun with contests or competitions.

Freestyle Snowboarding – Mostly associated with riding the halfpipe, but which may also be used to describe jumps, spins, tricks and riding on boxes or rails.

Fresh Fish Air – The backside version of the Stale Fish

Front Hand – The hand closest to the nose of the snowboard.

Front Foot – The foot mounted closest to the nose of the board

Frontside Air – An aerial maneuver performed on the toeside wall of a halfpipe.

Frontside Rotation – Rotating the direction your heel side is facing.

G

Goofy – Riding with the front foot forward or facing down the hill.

Grab – To grab either side of the snowboard in the air with the right or left hand.

Grommet (Grom) – Refers to a small, young snowboarder.

H

Haakon Flip – An inverted switch 720 invented by Terje Haakonsen. A halfpipe trick in which the rider approaches the backside wall riding fakie and rotates in the backside direction while going upside down.

Half-Cab – The freeriding version of the Caballerial in which one rotates 180 degrees from fakie to forward off of a straight jump.

Halfpipe – A U-shaped snow structure built for freestyle snowboarding with opposing walls of the same height and pitch.

Handplant – A trick where one or both hands are planted on the lip of the half pipe wall or obstacle and the rotation is either backside or frontside

Hard Boots – Similar to alpine skiing boots, hard boots are very stiff for maximum support in carving and racing.

Heel Drag (overhang) – When the bindings are placed too far toward the heel side, the heels drag in the snow while riding and interfere with turns. Heel drag can occur when the board is too small for a rider’s foot.

Heel Edge – The edge of the snowboard where the heel hits.

Heel side Turn – Turn made with the heel side edge.

High Back Bindings – A binding system which includes a piece that supports the ankle and calf and extends perpendicularly from the board. They provide support, especially for edging and turning on the heel edge.

Highway – A large grove made by repeated riding in the same spot in the flat bottom and/or up the wall of a half pipe.

Ho Ho – A two handed hand plant.

Hole Pattern – The number of holes in a snowboard in which the bindings mount to the board (3 or 4 hole pattern).

Hucker – One who uncontrollably throws himself into the air without any regard to personal or surrounding safety.

I

Insert – The piece of metal laminated within a snowboard in order to secure the screws that attach the bindings.

Invert – A trick where the head is beneath the level of the board and the snowboarder balances on one or two hands.

Inverted Ariel – When a snowboarder becomes airborne with the head below the board at any given time.

Inveted 180 – See Crippler Air.

Inverted 540 – See McTwist.

J

Jam Session – A competition in which all riders perform in the half pipe or park at the same time. One rider drops in after the next in no particular order.

Japan Air – The front hand grabs the toe edge in front of the front foot (mute grab), both knees are bent, the rear leg boned, and the board is pulled to the level of the head.

Jib  Riding on something other than snow like rails, boxes, trees, garbage cans, logs, etc.

J-Tear – Invented by Mike Jacoby, an invert where the rider rotates roughly 540 degrees in a frontside direction while planting one or both hands on the lip of the wall.

K

Kicker – Large jump with a manmade or natural ramp.

L

Late – Putting an extra move in an aerial trick before landing.

Leash – A retention device used to attach the snowboard to the front foot so it won’t slide away while getting in or out of the bindings.

Lien Air – Named after skateboarder Neil Blender, the front hand grabs the heel edge and the body leans out over the nose.

Lien Method Air – A cross between a Method and a Lien.

Lip – The top edge of the half pipe wall.

M

McEgg – An invert where the athlete plants the front hand on the wall, rotates 540 degrees in a backside direction, and lands riding forward.

McTwist – Named after skateboarder Mike McGill, an inverted aerial where the athlete performs a 540 degree rotational flip. In other words, the rider approaches the halfpipe wall riding forward, becomes airborne, rotates 540 degrees in a backside direction while performing a front flip, and lands riding forward.

Melonchollie Air – The front hand reaches behind the front leg and grabs the heel edge between the bindings while the front leg is boned.

Method Air – With both knees bent and the heels rising toward the rider’s back, the front hand grabs the heel edge and the board is pulled to level of the head.

Miller Flip – An inverted aerial where the halfpipe wall is approached riding forward, the front hand is planted, a 360 degree frontside rotation is made, and the rider lands riding fakie.

Misty Flip – An inverted backside 540 performed off of a straight jump. It is the straight jump version of the McTwist. Therefore the approach is riding forward and the landing is fakie.

Mosquito Air – A trick in the half pipe where the front hand reaches behind the front leg and grabs the heel edge between the bindings. The front knee is then bent to touch the board tuck knee style.

Mute Air – The front hand grabs the toe edge either between the toes or in front of the front foot.

N

Nollie – Much like an ollie, except the rider springs off of the nose instead of the tail.

Nollie Frontflip – Springing off of the nose while going off of a jump while leaning forward, allowing you to do a frontflip.

Nose – The front end of the snowboard or tip.

Nose Bonk – To intentionally hit and rebound off of a natural or manmade object with the nose.

Nose Grab Air – During an aerial, the front hand grabs the nose of the snowboard.

Nose Poke Air – Any maneuver where you bone your front leg and “poke” the nose of the snowboard in a direction away from your body usually while grabbing.

Nose Slide – To press the nose of the snowboard while lifting the tail and sliding along the ground or an object.

Nuclear Air – The rear hand reaches across the front of the body and grabs the heel edge in front of the front foot.

O

Ollie – Borrowed from skateboarding, an Ollie is to get air by first lifting the front foot, springing off the back foot, then landing on both feet.

Overhang (heel drag) – When the heel drags off the end of the snowboard. Occurs if the bindings are set up incorrectly or if the board is to small for the rider.

P

Palmer Air – Named after Shaun Palmer, a variation of a method where the grab is near the nose, the board is pulled across the front of the body, and the nose is pointed downward.

Phillips 66 – Named after skateboarder Jeff Phillips, an invert where the athlete approaches the halfpipe wall riding fakie, plants the rear hand on the lip of the wall while doing a “front flip” and lands in the transition riding forward.

Pipe Dragon – A grooming device used to groom half pipes.

Poach – To ride closed terrain, like a roped off trail, the park or half pipe.

Polyurethane Injection Construction – Common in lower-priced snowboards, this snowboard construction is made by injecting Polyurethane foam into a mold to comprise the core. Such snowboards are usually lighter than wood core boards, but are also less durable and lose flex and camber after a hard season of riding. They have a much shorter life span than a board with a wood core.

Pop Tart – Airing from switch to forward in the halfpipe without rotation.

Poser – One who pretends to be something one is not.

Pro Jump – A drop off, usually two to four feet in a racecourse.

P-Tex – A brand of polyurethane used to form and repair the base of skis and snowboards. Although not all snowboards bases are composed of P-Tex, many riders often refer to any base material as P-Tex.

Q

Quadratic Sidecut – Sidecut design shape which is based on a quadratic formula rather than the arc of a circle. Such a design allows for camber and board flex to be integrated into the board construction.

Quarterpipe – A halfpipe with only one wall. It looks like a snow sculpted shape which contains a transition and a vertical, and is used as a jump to catch air.

R

Rail – 1. A snowboard obstacle resembling a hand rail for stairs. 2. The sidewall and an edge of a snowboard.

Railing – A term used to describe making fast and hard turns.

Rail Slide – To slide the rails of the snowboard onto almost anything other than a flat slope like a fallen tree branches, logs, coping of a half pipe or a picnic table.  other than a flat slope.

Rear Hand – The hand closest to the tail of the snowboard.

Rear Foot – The foot mounted closest to the tail.

Regular Footed – Riding on a snowboard with the left foot facing down the hill or closest to the nose.

Revert – To switch from riding fakie to forward, or from forward to fake typically while the snowboard is still touching the ground.

Rewind – Where a rotation is initiated, stopped, and its momentum reversed.

Roast Beef Air – The rear hand grabs the heel edge between the bindings while the rear leg is boned.

Rocker – The opposite of camber. When placed on flat ground, the center of the board between the bindings comes in contact with the surface while the board’s nose and tail rise off the ground. Often used on boards engineered for powder, park or beginners. Many variations of rocker exist.

Rocket Air – The front hand grabs the toe edge closest to the front foot while the back leg is boned. The board points perpendicular to the ground.

Rodeo Flip – An inverted frontside 540 off of a straight jump. In the halfpipe, it is more like performing a 540 degree rotation which is inverted and off-axis.

Rolling Down the Windows – When a rider is caught off balance and they
rotate their arms wildly in the air to try and recover.

Rollout Deck – The very top horizontal portion of the halfpipe wall where one can stand and look into the half pipe. Photographers often shoot from this point. It is used as a walkway in order to hike to the top of the halfpipe.

Run – A slope or trail.

Running Length – The length of the base of the snowboard which touches the snow.

S

Sad Plant – A hand plant where the front leg is boned out for style.

Sandwich Laminated Construction – Snowboard construction which is the most expensive and labor intensive to make. Either foam or wood core is used and typically provides the lightest weight and most lively flex.

Seatbelt Air – While the front leg is boned, the front hand reaches across the body and grabs the tail.

Segmented Edges – Steel edges which do not form one or two solid pieces around the edge of the snowboard. It costs less to product and is less durable, but is easier to replace than solid steel edges. Snowboards with segmented edges usually have many pieces around the nose and tail.

Shifty Air – When the upper torso and lower body are twisted in opposite directions and then returned to normal. Usually the front leg is boned and no grab is involved.

Shovel – The lifted or upward curved sections of a snowboard at the tip and tail.

Sidecut Radius – The measure (usually in cm) of the circle radius to which the sidecut of a snowboard corresponds. The smaller the number, the quicker and easier a board will turn. A higher number results in the rider’s ability to ride faster

Sideslip – Sliding sideways down a slope. Beginners often sideslip when they are learning.

Sintered Base – High molecular-weight base formed by the heating and compression of small fragments of P-tex. Sintered bases absorb and hold wax better and are more durable than extruded bases, i.e. they are faster.

Slob Air – The front hand grabs mute, the back leg is boned, and the board is kept parallel with the ground.

Slopestyle – A freestyle event in which the competitor rides over a series of various kinds of jumps, boxes and rails. He or she is then judged on the performance of tricks and maneuvers.

Smith Grind – A trick on the lip where the rider slides with the coping perpendicular to the snowboard, the front leg is boned, and the nose is oriented below the coping while the tail is above. This is typically a skateboarding trick, but snowboarders attempt it on snow.

Soft Boots – Snowboard boots designed for use in freestyle and freeride snowboarding. Boots are soft and pliable and allow a large range of motion while maintaining sufficient support.

Snurfer – The original snowboard made in 1965 by Sherman Popper. It did not have bindings or edges, but had a rope attached to the nose for steering.

Snake – A term used to describe someone who cuts in front of you in the lift line or drops in front of you in the half pipe or park.

Spaghetti Air – With the back leg boned, the rear hand reaches between the legs and behind the front leg to grab the toe edge in front of the front foot.

Speed Check – To slow down by make a few quick turns or sliding sideways when approaching a jump with too much speed.

Spin – To turn in the air.

Spine – A snow sculpted jump with two transitional walls coming together to form a spine. A rider may air off either side and land on the other.

Spoon Nose – A nose of a snowboard that is shaped so the edges curve up like a spoon. A spoon nose is helpful for buttering and jibbing, so as not to catch an edge at the nose.

Stale Egg – An eggplant with a stalefish grab. Refer to Eggplant and Stalefish.

Stalefish Air – With the rear leg boned, the rear hand grabs the heel edge behind the rear leg and in between the bindings.

Stalemasky Air – The front hand reaches between the legs and grabs the heel edge between the bindings while the front leg is boned.

Stalled – When a trick is performed and held still or ‘stalled’ for an extended period of time in the air.

Staircase – A series of ledges where the rider jumps down from one to the next.

Stance – The position of ones feet and bindings on the snowboard differentiated by angles and width.

Stick – Another name for a snowboard or a term used to describe a perfect landing by a rider.

Stiffy Air – Any trick in which both legs are boned and a grab is incorporated.

Stinky – Riding with the legs spread open and knees apart.

Stoked (slang) – An alternate term for the word psyched or excited.

Stomp – A term used to describe a good landing made by a rider.

Stomp Pad – The no slip pad attached to the snowboard with adhesive between the bindings. It helps in getting on and off the lift with the rear foot out of the binding on the stomp pad.

Suitcase Air – Similar to the Method Air except once the knees are bent, the front hand reaches under the base of the snowboard from behind to grab the toe edge.

Swiss Cheese Air – With the back leg boned, the rear hand reaches between the legs behind the front leg and grabs the heel edge in front of the front foot.

Switchstance (Switch) – Riding with your non-dominant foot forward. Also referred to as riding fakie.

T

Table Top – A jump in which the take off and landing is connected by a long flat surface. Ideally, the rider should clear the ‘table’ and land on the down slope.

Tail – The rear tip of the snowboard.

Tail Bonk – To intentionally hit and bounce off an object, either natural or manmade, with the tail of the snowboard.

Tail Grab Air – The rear hand grabs the tail of the snowboard.

Tail Poke – When the rear leg is bonedmaneuver where you bone your rear leg and “poke” the tail of the snowboard in a direction away from your body, usually while grabbing.

Tail Slide – To slide along the ground or an object solely on the tail of the snowboard with the nose lifted.

Tail Tap – See Tail Bonk.

Tail Wheelie – To ride solely on the tail of the snowboard with the nose in the air.

Taipan Air – The front hand reaches behind the front foot and grabs the toe edge between the bindings. The front knee is then bent to touch the board tuck knee style.

Toe Edge – The edge of the snowboard closest to the toes. Opposite of heel edge.

Toe Overhang/Drag – When the toe hangs off the edge of the board and potentially drags in the snow. Toe drags occurs if the binding is set up incorrectly or if the board is too small for the rider.

Toeside Turn – Making a turn on your toe side edge.

Transition (Tranny) – The radial curved section of a halfpipe wall between the flat bottom and the vertical.

Traverse – To ride perpendicular or diagonal to the fall line.

Tree Well – A hole in the snow surrounding a tree. Often times, tree wells are very difficult to see.

Tuck – A crouched position of low wind resistance used to attain higher speed.

Tuck knee – A technique where one knee is bent and the ankle bent laterally in order to touch the knee to the snowboard between the bindings.

Tweaked – Pulling the board forward or backward while preforming a trick in the air.

Twin Tip – A snowboard which has both nose and tail shaped identically. The flex is also mirrored throughout the board and it’s mean’t to have the same feel whether riding switch or regular.

V

Vertical (Vert) – The vertical top portion of a wall in a half pipe, which allows the snowboarder to boost into the air.

W

Wack – Something that is not good.

Wall – the transition and vertical section of a half pipe.

Waist – The narrowest part of the board in between the bindings.

If there are any snowboarding terms that we’ve missed, please let us know via the comment form below.  Thank you.