How to Wax a Snowboard



Nothing will ruin a powder day faster than a slow base, and you don’t want questionable glide when you’re rolling into a kicker, hip or other features. Speed counts big time, and waxing your board properly enables you to use gravity to its fullest. Don’t be daunted by the task of waxing your own snowboard. Following these steps it’s actually very simple.

Waxing Snowboard - Supplies 1

What supplies you’ll need:

  • A work area, preferably a garage or workshop space. Sometimes waxing can get a little messy.
  • A waxing specific iron (You can find these here at The House Boardshop). Don’t use your home iron. Once you use an iron for waxing you can’t use it again to iron clothes. Wax specific irons come with a flat base (as opposed to steam vents) and temperature settings that are ideal for melting snowboard and ski wax.
  • Snowboard or Ski Wax (You can find this here at The House Boardshop).
  • A Scraper (You can find these here at The House Boardshop)
  • A Base Brush/Buffer (You can find these here at The House Boardshop)
  • Base Cleaner (You can find this here at The House Boardshop)
  • A phillips-head screwdriver (For loosening or taking off your bindings prior to waxing).

Wax Off

Clean your base so the wax really takes. Use base cleaner and a rag, or if you don’t have any, run a hot iron over the base, apply a thin layer of wax, and then scrape instantly. Cleaning your base before applying a fresh wax is particularly important if you’re riding spring/summer snow because of all the dust, dirt and other impurities speckling the snowpack.

More Pre-Wax Prep

Loosen your binding screws or remove them altogether. The bolts conduct heat when you run the iron over them and will create small dimples in your base. You don’t want that.

Wax On

Picking the right combination of wax types is the trickiest part. Things to consider: Where do you live, what temperature range do you ride in, what’s the forecast for the next week? Choose a wax that best represents the conditions you’re riding in. All-temperature wax is one option; blending multiple temp waxes is another, more custom option. Along your edge, the adjacent section of base takes the most abuse, so consider using a harder wax in that area.

When you’re ready to go, grab a pre-warmed waxing iron and block of wax, hold the wax to the iron and let the molten droplets fall evenly across the board’s base. Then iron-on the wax by running the iron over the droplets, and spreading a film of wax evenly across the base. DON’T OVERHEAT YOUR BOARD! Touch the top-sheet periodically from below to get a feel for how hot the board is; it should never be more than warm to the touch.

Scrape to Smooth

Let the wax cool for about a half hour, or until it reaches room temperature. Then take a wax scraper (sharper the better), and make long, smooth strokes from nose to tail. Short choppy scraping makes for a bad tune and a slow base. Long and smooth…

Buff it Out

Use a base brush to remove excess, leftover wax and expose the “structure” of your base. For the extra, extra-fine treatment, buff your base with a pair of pantyhose from nose to tail. -MH

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17 Responses to “How to Wax a Snowboard”

  1. I use Choad Cheese snowboard wax, It’s hand crafted in the USA. They offer up several scents, they call em flavors and every one of their Choads is the fastest wax formula I’ve ever used. Support purveyors of stoke and a manufacturer that doesn’t have their wax made In a Bangladesh sweatshop.

  2. snowbank on said:

    The instructions in the video seem to contradict the written instructions for scraping: is there no rhyme or reason to scrapping or should you use long strokes from tip to tail?

  3. danaw on said:

    Long smooth strokes from tip to tail are ideal. However, its all about getting the excess wax off your board.

  4. unlimited newshosting on said:

    Greetings from Idaho! I’m bored to tears at work so I decided to browse your blog on my iphone during lunch break. I love the information you present here and can’t wait to take a look when I get home. I’m amazed at how quick your blog loaded on my phone .. I’m not even using WIFI, just 3G .. Anyways, good site!

  5. If you follow the vedio it really helps you out and fly down the moumtain

  6. last year i boarding backcountry and hit some rocks and scraped my board pretty bad… some parts pretty deep… how can i save the board

  7. gufrocks on said:

    The easiest way to save your board after getting some core shots is to fill in the space with P-Tex. We’ll try to make a video asap!

  8. Michael on said:

    Bought a Soloman Rode 2 days of Mammoth fresh powder. Hated the board.

    Traded for a Ride DH 2011. I think I’m gonna love it. What do you guys think?

  9. Michael on said:

    ^ Soloman Pulse flatboard and was a 156mm, i’m 5’9” 176 lbs.

  10. gufrocks on said:

    The Ride DH is a super responsive cambered deck that I’ve always loved; hopefully you will too!

  11. I have a DH2… similar type of board and i freaking love it. She flies and turns like a knife through butter. You can’t go wrong with Ride boards.

  12. michael artinian on said:

    I got the New Burton custom flying V-rocker. It’s by far the best board ever made. If u get chance demo it and I promise you that it will be the only board u ever ride again

  13. gufrocks on said:

    Right on! It is one of the best boards out there! It’s great for everything!

  14. gufrocks on said:

    True that! The Ride DH series has always been amazing. Wait and see what they’re releasing for 2014…MINDBLOWING!

  15. A lot of people dont bother to take off thier bindings when they wax thier board, glad to see it in this post. I know its a lot of hassle, but you can ruin the base and the fixings if not.

  16. milosz on said:

    We try to help the noobs whenever we can!

  17. We try to help the noobs whenever we can!

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