Ronix Koal Wakesurfer:

• Machined EVA top deck with built in tail wedge
• The quickest rocker line
• 3 surf specific 2.9″ bottom mount fins
• Surf Constructed – lighter, faster, more buoyant
• Epoxy Construction – harder resin equals a stronger board
• Swallow Tail

Ronix One Skimmer:

• Machined EVA top
• Semi twin- easy to ride switch
• .9″ bottom mount tip fin
•  2.9″ bottom mount tail fin
• Surf constructed  (handle with care)
• Created by Danny Harf

 Ronix Parks Carbon Thruster:

• Machined EVA top deck with  tail wedge
• The quickest rocker line, construction, profile and rail design e
• 5 new surf specific 2.3″
• 5 new surf specific 2.9″
• All carbon construction
• Countless fin configurations
• Surf constructed – (handle with care)
• Epoxy Construction – harder resin equals a stronger board
• The soul of surfing is ridden by Parks Bonifay

Ronix The Duke Longboard Wakesurf Board:

• Machined EVA top deck with built in tail wedge
• 1 Longboard specific bottom mount fin
• The chance to ride your favorite longboard skateboard on the water now
• Surf constructed – lighter, faster, more buoyant, and yes more fragile (handle with care)
• Epoxy Construction – Harder resin equals a stronger board
• Erik Ruck approved for the soul of surfing

Stand Up Paddle Board Types

Stand Up Paddle Boarding  has been gaining  in popularity in recent years, but the real question at hand is what the right sup for you. A touring Sup? A Surf Style SUP? A all around SUP?  Each type of SUP is best suited for a different style of paddle Boarding. Most people will fall into the most versatility type of Stand Up Paddle Board. The All around Stand Up paddle board category. The all around SUP’s are are typicality longer, wider and thicker. The increased length, thickness and wider profile make for boards more stable and forgiving.  Perfect both intermediate and beginners riders looking to surf small wave, do yoga, or just paddle around the lake.

Types Of Stand Up Paddle Boards

All Around Stand Up Paddleboards

• Thicker
• Wider
• Longer
• Stable
• Good for both small surf and flat water.

Surf Style Stand Up Paddle Boards

• More Rocker
• Shorter
• Rounded Rail
• More Maneuverable

Race and Touring Stand Up Paddle Boards

• Less Rocker
• Hull Shape
• Faster and Smoother through the choppy water

Hybrid Windsurfing/ Stand Up Paddle board

• Similar to all  around SUP shapes
• Thicker
• Wider
• Longer
• Stable
• Mast Track
• Dagger Board

High-quality versus low-quality SUP Construction

Low quality SUP boards tend to use cheep polyurethane foam or low density foam cores with  a thin layers of fiberglass. The result is a SUP board that looks a lot everything else on the market and will work reasonably well for most people, yet:

1. They may easily crack and if not immediately fixed properly, they absorb water and add significant weight to the board.
2. They typicality do not hold up well over time.
3. They are susceptible to water absorption, due to only having a thin layer of fiberglass
4. Is susceptible to outright snapping in waves

 Choosing The Right SUP Paddle

With increased demand and decreased cost of production, the cost of stand up paddle (SUP) boards have certainly come down the past couple of years. Paddles are a different story. They need to withstand a lot more abuse and stress than boards. Simply put, if the paddle isn’t made well, it’s highly prone to breakage and it just won’t perform well on the water. It’s important to learn about your gear, especially when buying for the first time, so read on find out how choose your perfect paddle.

What Kind of Paddler Are You?

• Will you be surfing or flat water paddling?
• What is your fitness and skill level?
• What kind of board do you have?

Paddle Construction Before having a panic attack over the varying prices of paddles, first consider the components and essential materials used to make a quality paddle. The paddle consists of the blade, shaft and handle, each affecting the ergonomics of the paddler as well as the efficiency of the paddle stroke. A less expensive paddle has an aluminum shaft with plastic handle and blade. Viewed as beginner paddles, these are the most durable paddles on the market. Performance paddles, on the other hand, typically have carbon fiber blades and fiberglass shafts, both of which are far lighter weight than aluminum and plastic. Carbon fiber has incredible strength to weight ratio making it ideal for smoother strokes, using less energy. In a nutshell, if you’re a novice paddler or only plan on cursing on flat water a few times a month, a less expensive paddle will do the trick. If you have a few seasons under your belt or if you’re looking for a little more excitement with your paddling, lighter weight materials will greatly enhance your experience on the water. And of course, if you’re racing or plan to paddle for extended periods of time, you’ll definitely need to drop a little more cash on a performance paddle to reduce fatigue and to go faster.

Carbon Fiber SUP Paddle-

• Offer a better weight to power ratio.
• Perfect for surfing or long distance paddling.
• Lighter
• Higher Cost, typicality $179-$300.

Adjustable Aluminum SUP Paddles-

• Strong and Durable
• Less expensive $89-$150
• Heavier
• Perfect paddle for the first purchase of a passionate SUP family

Blade Size and Shape Paddling style and body size are the main factors to consider when choosing a blade size. A smaller person should stick to a smaller blade for more control and less fatigue. You’d think that a larger person should always use a larger blade, but many larger people still prefer a smaller blade due to their paddling style. A high, fast cadence style of paddling will be more efficient with a smaller blade. Dynamic turning with quick, short strokes will be easier with a smaller blade. Larger blades put more power into a lower cadence stroke. Such a blade is helpful when trying to get into waves for surfing. If your paddling style depends on the day, give preference to your distance paddling needs. You’ll be much happier with a smaller blade that won’t tire your arms and shoulders out.

Suggested SUP Paddle Lenght

Length of Paddle As a general rule of thumb, the paddle should be 6″ to 10″ longer than your height (shoes off!). A longer paddle provides a longer, stronger stroke for flat water SUPing. A shorter paddle enables the quicker, shorter strokes needed to navigate more challenging water conditions  and waves. Adjustable paddles are recommended for people who plan to share their paddle with friends and family. While not performance paddles so to speak, adjustable are still perfect for most recreational paddlers and will deliver for years to come.

Conclusion Like any other sport, it’s not a bad idea to ‘test the waters’ before throwing down on the highest end gear. First timers, a less expensive paddle will guarantee a summer of fun. And hey, if the paddle was only $99 and you found your new calling with stand up paddle boarding, then treat yourself to a performance paddle next summer. You can always share your old paddle with friends or other newbies!

2012 Hyperlite System Binding

In 2011 Hyperlite lunched the System Bindings and they are perhaps the most innovating design change in the wakeboard Industry.  Taking their inspiration from snowboarding.  The System is the only wakeboard binding/boot system on the planet.

• New Adjustable Toe Strap System – Over the top or over the toe
• New Fast Back Locking Highback Option
• Baseless Boot Interface
• Ultra Light G5 Chassis Construction
• Articulating Highback
• Mid Flex, Adjustable Ankle Strap
• Strata Specific Mounting Locations
• Traditional 6” Mounting Locations
• Super Comfortable and Responsive
• Great for Cold Water Wakeboarding and kite boarding

2012 Hyperlite System Boots

Hyperlite Webb System Boot

 The Webb System Boot is most flexible boot in Hyperlite’s line. The boot features the lowest cut cuff , which complement JD Webb’s smooth  freeride style. It has a Ultralon heat moldable liner for superior fit and comfort. The Webb system boot also has two cinch straps and custom insoles with an integrated arch support for maximum stability.

•  Revolutionary 2-Part Construction
• EVA-Lite Outsole
• TPR Impact Gel Inserts
• Custom Ultron Insoles
• Heat Moldable Hyper-Liner EVA
• Flow Through Drain Panels and Outsole
• Dual Quick Cinch Lace Zones
• Lace Management Stash Pockets
• Lower Cuff Offering the Most Range of Motion

The AJ System Boot has a low profile cut and a traditional lacing system with an unique street inspired design. The low profile cuff makes these boots perfect for poking and tweaking out  tricks and new EVA heel impact pads for flat water landing. There is also a has new internal heal retention system, which keeps your heal locked in place giving you a very supportive feel. Overall, the AJ Ssytem Boot is great for all around riders.

• Revolutionary 2-Part Construction
• EVA-Lite Outsole
• EVA Heel Impact Inserts
• Custom Ultron Insoles
• Integrated Heel Hold System
• Heat Moldable Hyper-Liner EVA
• Flow Through Drain Panels and Outsole
• Traditional Lacing System
• Second Color Lace Set

The Hyperlite Murray System Boot has a midrange flex, lost of support and a very lightweight construction. With a mid cut one piece cuff  the Murray Boot offer the support and stability you need, while still giving you the flex to really tweak out your tricks.

• Revolutionary 2-Part Construction
• EVA-Lite Outsole
• TPR Impact Gel Inserts
• Custom Ultron Insoles
• Heat Moldable Hyper-Liner EVA
• Flow Through Drain Panels and Outsole
• Dual Quick Cinch Lace Zones
• Lace Management Stash Pockets
• Mid Range Support and Range of Motion

The Merek has the tallest cuff making it the stiffest boot in the system line. With a Quick Cinch Lace Zones and Boa closure system it is easy to make adjustments on the fly. Featuring a new Heat Moldable EVA  Hyper-Liner that is more durable and comfortable then the previous model. If you looking for comfort and support the new Hyperlite Marek System boot might be the one for you.

• Revolutionary 2-Part Construction
• EVA-Lite Outsole
• BOA Closure System
• TPR Impact Gel Inserts
• Custom Ultron Insoles
• Heat Moldable Hyper-Liner EVA
• Flow Through Drain Panels and Outsole
• Quick Cinch Lace Zones
• Lace Management Stash Pockets
• Taller More Supportive Cuff

The sport of snowshoeing has gained immense popularity over the years as a cost effective, caloric burning and enjoyable means of exploring the wintry outdoors. It’s sort of like having big bear feet that can plow through any amount of snow or terrain. There is basically zero learning curve – if you can walk, you can snowshoe! Crazy as it sounds, snowshoes date back to the days of animal trapping, fur trading and life before sliced bread. Today, families, back country mad men, cardio junkies and even toddlers effortlessly tromp through the snow while increasing stamina, improving endurance and getting a healthy dose of nature.

If you’re ready to step onto a new pair of snowshoes this winter, The House has a wide selection and the best prices on Tubbs Snowshoes. A household name since 1906, Tubbs uses quality materials that deliver season after season. They’ve even perfected women’s snowshoes, giving them a narrower frame and unique binding design. Since women have a very different frame and a smaller stride than men, it’s important to outfit yourself or your lady in gender specific snowshoes for the most enjoyable experience.

Where to Snowshoe?

You won’t need to wait in line, drive to the mountain or buy a lift ticket to snowshoe. Golf courses, state or local parks, and even your own back-yard can be a snowshoe haven. Snowshoe specific trails also exist at Nordic Centers near ski resorts, bed and breakfasts or inns and national parks. Skiiers and snowboarders in search of pristine powder, earn their turns in the backcountry and side country by trekking out of bounds. Snowshoes make it possible to ascend beyond the lift or to venture outside of marked trails.

How to Snowshoe

A natural and normal stride is best, although the feet must be slightly wider than normal to avoid hitting the insides of the snowshoes. The inner thighs will love this low impact workout! Most people simply walk in their snowshoes, but others run in snowshoes on designated trails and even partake in organized races.

Packed snow is ideal for beginners, while cleats and a kicked up nose enable the user to walk up hills and plow through deeper snow. When walking down a slope, smaller steps should be taken with the knees slightly bent for increased stability. Snowshoeing uphill tends to come more naturally and has the added bonus of toning your buns! For longer treks with diverse terrain, snowshoe poles are quite helpful for balance and giving the upper body an added workout.

Snowshoe Sizing

While snowshoes are sized by length, weight is the most important factor when determining snowshoe size. No fudging your weight either! The more you weight, the wider the footprint of the snowshoe and the longer the length. This will enable you to sink perfectly into powder – not too much and not too little! The House provides size charts for every model that will help you determine the proper length of your snowshoes.

Types of Snowshoes

Depending on your snowshoe intentions, there are three styles of snowshoes. Although they are all fairly versatile, the most expensive pair doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re “the best” for all types of users. What’s nice about snowshoes is that upgrading in the future won’t be a major investment like dropping in on a carbon fiber bike frame.

• Recreational snowshoes are ideal for users who live close to trails, parks or open space where one can easily get their snowshoe on. The majority of users fall under this category. These value oriented models offer easy to use bindings and are designed for flat or rolling terrain with primarily packed snow. Running specific snowshoes also fall under this category.
• Adventure snowshoes are a step above recreational models. Stronger traction, more advanced bindings and ergonomical design make treks through powder and moderate terrain effortless. Adventure snowshoes are better for ‘breaking the trail.’
• Backcountry snowshoes are hardcore to say the least. They are most suited for steep, uneven terrain with deep powder and icy slopes. Backcountry skiiers, snowboarders and backpackers typically opt for these models due to their durability, aggressive crampons, advanced binding system and dependability on untracked terrain.

Outfit Your Feet For Snowshoeing

Leather hiking boots that have been treated with a protective waterproofing spray are perfect for recreational snowshoeing. Trail running shoes are ideal for aerobic and fitness snowshoeing. And for the adventurous souls who ascend the backcountry wilderness on snowshoes in search of fresh lines, snowboard boots work perfect.

Regardless of what type of snowshoeing you plan to partake in, moisture wicking socks are crucial for the most enjoyable experience! They keep your feet warm, allow them to breath and soak up any excess moisture so your feet don’t turn to popsicles. For your ankles and calves, gaiters keep the snow out of your boots. They aren’t crucial for leisurely strolls on packed snow, but for any trail cutting or powder, gaiters will truly make or break your day!  For a full snowshoe gear checklist go here.

Dress for Success!

Layering is by far the best way to dress for any winter aerobic activity. Multiple layers make it easier to control the temperature around your body. Add a layer if you’re chilly and ditch a layer before you start to sweat too much. Base layer tops and bottoms are worn directly against the skin serving as the key ingredient for moisture management and breathability. Cotton is a poor choice for a base layer since it will soak up sweat the instant the body starts to perspire. Once that happens and you stop moving, get ready to shiver in your own freezing sweat!

An insulating layer such as a fleece is ideal for the second layer. Fleece offers a bump in the warmth department without compromising range of movement or adding excess bulk. If it’s 30 degrees or above, two layers should be sufficient. Pack a technical shell in your pack in case the temperature drops or if it starts to dump snow. This outer layer is your main defense against blustery winds and precipitation.

Don’t forget a hat and a pair of gloves or mittens! If you start to overheat, take off your hat for a bit to quickly dump some heat. If you tend to sweat during aerobic activities, lighter gloves or mitts will best protect your hands from getting clammy.

Last but not least, have fun out there!!

Many would consider Loaded Longboard to be the best in the industry. With  fiberglass additive, vertically lamated bamboo and a dropthur design, these are the perfect board for those who are looking to take their longboarding skills to the next level.

If you don’t have $300+ to drop on a longboard check out our inventory of moderately priced longboard from GoldCoast, Santa Cruz, Arbor and Sector 9.

Click here to see our full selection of Longboards.

If you are looking for your first longboard or something to cruz around campus with, check out the GoldCoast Rebirth Moon. It has a eco-friendly bamboo construction and the durability of a Mac Truck. The  GoldCoast Rebirth Moon is a reasonably priced longboard that is perfect for anyone looking to get in to the sport.

Key Features of the Gold Coast Rebirth Moon Longboard :

• 40″ x 9.5″
• 24″ Wheel Base
• Kicktail
•  Bamboo Consturtion
• Century 7″ Reverse Pivot Trucks
• 68mm 80a Wheels
• ABEC 7 Bearings With Teflon
• GoldCoast Printed Grip Tape

The Boy Scout Motto is simply “Be Prepared.” Preparation is essential for any outdoor adventure. Having the necessary supplies and equipment can make or break your overall enjoyment, experience and likelihood of spending time in the great outdoors again.  Checklists are a great tool to help with your organization and to ensure that you don’t leave any essentials behind. Your camping checklist will vary according to the type of camping and activities you have planned, the time of year and the length of your trip. Add or remove items to suit your individual needs and desires…

Shelter and Camp Checklist - New campers often over look what sort of gear they’ll need besides the tent. Where will you sit by the fire? On the ground? Sure, but a folding chair is much more comfortable. Check out the items that made it to our shelter and camp checklist…

• Tent
• Tent footprint, tarp or ground cloth for underneath the tent
• Extra stakes
• Shade tarp or screen house
• Mat for tent entrance
• Folding chairs
• Folding table
• Musical instruments
• Hammock
• Rope or clothesline

Bedding - A sleeping bag and a sleeping mat are really all you’ll need. Some people, especially people with babies, prefer air mattresses with sheets and blankets. Stick with a sleeping back to start, then see which you prefer!

• Sleeping bag(s) 3-season or 4-season
• Sleeping pads or air mattress
• Pillow
• Sheets and blankets

Food – Now of course, your camping meals are a matter of preference. Some campers go all out with marinated steaks, corn on the cob with herbed butter and freshly roasted potatoes. It’s certainly possible to prepare a gourmet meal in the wilderness! However, don’t spread yourself too thin at first. Keep it simple and satisfying for your first couple of family camping trips with the food basics below.

• Coffee and/or tea
• Hot chocolate mix
• Granola/oatmeal
• Eggs
• Energy bars
• Pancake mix and maple syrup
• Butter
• Bread or bagels
• Jam and peanut butter
• Meat (fresh and jerky)
• Cooking oil
• Vegetables
• Drink mixes or electrolyte mixes
• Trail mix
• S’moors fixins (graham crackers, chocolate bars, marshmellows)
• Fruit (dried and fresh)
• Cheese
• Pasta
• Jarred pasta sauce
• Canned soup
• Crackers/chips
• Spices and herbs

Kitchen – You can set up a mini, functional outdoor kitchen in no time. Grills are often the norm at campsites, but don’t rely soley on the grill unless you’re planning to fire it up for burgers and grilled veggies three times a day. To vary your meals, you’ll need a few pots and a pan to place on top of the grill for cooking. Again, not every item below is essential, but take a look and decide what you’ll use most.

• Stove
• Fuel
• Matches/lighter
• Charcoal with firestarter
• Frying pan
• Two different sized cooking pots
• Portable coffee maker or coffee press
• Bottle opener
• Plates, bowls, mixing bowls and utensils
• Chef knife and paring knife
• Table cloth
• Resealable food storage bags
• Garbage bags
• Coolers with ice
• Water bottle and hot/cold thermos
• Spatula
• Whisk
• Cutting board
• Sponge
• Dish towels
• Biodegradable soap
• Collapsible water container
• Portable or standing camp sink

Clothing and Footwear - Check the weather several times before you leave for your camping trip. Assume that it could change at any moment and be prepared with the essentials below.

• Base layer and/or moisture wicking tees and tanks
• Base layer pants and tops
• Quick drying pants and shorts
• T-shirts
• Sun protective hat
• Bandana
• Bathing suit
• Flip flops or sandals
• Hiking shoes or boots
• Hiking socks
• Rain jacket
• Fleece
• Vest
• Sleepwear
• Gloves or mittens

Personal Items – Roughing it is fun and all, but you’ll certainly want a few items to feel clean, fresh, and protected from the sun on your camp trip.

• Sunscreen
• Lip balm
• Aloe vera gel
• Toilet paper
• Insect repellent
• Hand sanitizer
• First-Aid kit – Check out our First-Aid Checklist
• Personalized toiletry kit
• Biodegradable soap
• Shower shoes/flip flops
• Personal medications

Tools and Gear - Your last bit of gear includes some miscellaneous items that will be handy and/or fun to bring along. The more you camp, the better an idea you’ll have of what’s most important and useful to you from this list!

• Hammer
• Multi-tool or knife
• Headlamps
• Flashlights
• Lantern with fuel
• Candles
• Water purification/filters/treatment   – How to purify water?
• Park map/area guide
• Binoculars
• Camera
• Notebook with pen/pencil
• Games/cards
• Travel alarm clock
• Duct tape
• Cell phone and charger and 2-way radio/walkie talkies
• Work gloves
• Daypack  - Review of best daypacks

Happy Camping!

Do you think you have all of your snowboarding terminology on lock down? Or are you looking to pick up your first set up and want to be sure you’re ahead of the game when you take your first lesson? Maybe you want to impress a car full of teenagers as you’re giving them a lift to the hill. Regardless, it’s not a bad idea to familiarize yourself with the most common words associated with snowboarding. Even for the veterans, you may pick up a few new terms, so check them out…

3, 5, 7, 9 – Acronyms for a 360, 540, 720 and 900 spin in the air.

50/50 – When the board rides straight down (nose first) a rail or box.

A

AASI – American Association of Snowboard Instructors.

Air – A jump or leap where the snowboard lifts off the ground.

Air-to-Fakie - A half pipe trick where the wall is approached riding forward, no rotation is made in the air, and the boarder lands riding backward (or fakie).

All-Mountain – Type of snowboard designed to ride any type of terrain – groomers, powder, park and half pipe.

B

Backcountry – Terrain outside of resort boundaries with no marked trails and natural obstacles like trees and cliffs.

Backside – A term originating from surfing, the direction in which you turn if you are traveling up a wave and turn so as you back faces the wave. In snowboarding, it is used to describe your direction of rotation in which the rider spins clockwise in the air if their left foot is facing down the hill (regular). It is the opposite of frontside.

Backside 180 – An aerial move where the rider makes a 180 degree rotatation off the jump leading with the heelside (clockwise for a regular stance and counterclockwise for goofy).

Backside Air – Any aerial maneuver performed on the backside wall of the half pipe

Boned Out – To straighten one or both legs during an aerial for extra style.

Baseplate - The bottom, flat part of the binding which includes the heel cup and fixes to the board via three or four holes. Burton also makes a a channel mounting system where the baseplate attaches with two screws on either side of the binding.

Base – The underside of the snowboard designed to glide across the snow. It is typically extruded or sintered.

Baseless Bindings - Snowboard bindings that don’t use a baseplate, so the boot sits directly on the snowboard. It enhances board feel and control, giving the rider a more natural foot-to-board feeling, similar to skateboarding.

Banked Slalom - A downhill slalom race course in which gate turns are set on snow banks. The Mount Baker Legendary Banked Slalom held every February is the most famous banked slalom course in the world.

Bevel- The angle of a snowboard’s steel edges. There are two bevels – the base bevel and the side edge bevel. The base bevel is the angle where the steel edge angles up from the flat base. The side bevel is is the angle the steel edge is tilted from the sidewall. The greater the base bevel, the faster the board.

Blindside - An advanced rotation in which the snowboarder is blind during takeoff or landing and must stretch to look over the shoulder.

Boardercross – A competition where participants race through turns, banks, obstacles and jumps in heats of 4-6 riders.

Bonk - To intentionally hit (or bonk) a non-snow object, like a tree stump, with the snowboard. A bonk is a type of trick.

Boost – To catch air off of a jump, half pipe or natural obstacle.

Butter - Leaning on the nose of the board (like a nose manual) and swing the tail of the board to the front.

Buttery – A term used to describe a snowboard with good flex.

Camber - The amount of space beneath the center of a snowboard when it lays on a flat surface and its weight rests on the tip and tail. Camber gives a board spring and pop on groomed runs. Reverse camber or rocker is the opposite of camber where the weight rests on the center of the board, rather than the tip and tail when laying flat.

Cant - The angle at which either foot points inward or outward, which causes the knees bend toward or away from each other.

Carve – A perfect turn where the edge of the board digs into the snow, causing the rider to gain speed with each turn.

Centered Stance – A stance that is centered on the board when your bindings are mounted. The distance between the nose and the front binding is the same as that between the tail and the rear binding. A centered stance is preferred by riders who ride goofy and regular equally well.

Chatter - Vibration of the snowboard resulting from high speed, tight turns, and/or icy conditions. Chatter is undesirable and common with soft boards at high speeds.

Chute – A narrow strip of snow bordered by rocks, cliffs and tight trees.

Corduroy - The tracks left by a snowcat grooming a trail that looks like corduroy pants. Clean, fun turns are made on corduroy terrain.

Corkskrew – A an aerial fast and tight rotation in the half pipe or off of a jump.

Crail – A trick where the rear hand grabs the toe edge in front of the front foot while the rear leg is boned.

Crippler Air - A half pipe inverted aerial where the snowboarder spins a 180 degree flip. In other words, the rider approaches a halfpipe wall riding forward, becomes airborne, rotates 90 degrees, flips over in the air, rotates another 90 degrees, and lands riding forward.

Crossbone Method Air - A Method Air (front hand grabs heel edge between the bindings) where the back leg is boned.

Crooked Cop Air – Freeriding version of the mosquito air.

Cruiser Run – A mellow, smooth trail at a resort where the riders take it easy.

D

Dampening – Reducing chatter (vibration) to increase handling and control. Structural modifications can be made to a snowboard or bindings to increase dampening.

Delaminate - When the top sheet of your snowboard begins to chip or peel off typically resulting from a crash, long term use, a defect or poor care of the snowboard.

Detune - The process of dulling the edges of the snowboard. Most people detune the edges around the nose and tail so they do not catch in the snow.

Ding – A scratch or gouge in the base of the board. Dings can occur if a rider rides over a rock or hits a hard chunk of ice.

Directional Stance - A snowboard stance allowing one to ride differently in one direction than the other. In other words your bindings are mounted on the snowboard so the distance between the nose and the front binding is different from that between the tail and the rear binding. With your bindings set this way, you would ride more easily in your preferred direction (being goofy or regular).

Duckfooted – A stance angle in which the toes are pointed outward like a duck.

E

Edge – The smooth metal edges that run the perimeter of the snowboard.

F

Faceplant – When a rider falls on his or her face.

Fakie – Riding backwards or with your non-dominant foot forward. Also referred to as ‘riding switch.’

Flail – A term used to describe out of control riding.

Daypack Size

There are two measurements to be aware of when choosing a new daypack – torso length and capacity.  Daypack capacity is measured in liters and typically ranges from 10 liters to as much as 70 liters. Depending on where you plan to take your pack, the capacity needed will vary. For day hikes, 30 to 40 liters will be plenty.  This will comfortably pack the essentials – food, water, first-aid kit, rain jacket and a fleece. For climbing and ski touring, a minimum of 40 liters is recommended to carry your necessary gear plus any extra clothing.  If trail running or racing is your thing, staying light is key and you should try to find a pack under 20 liters to minimize bulk and weight.

The torso length of a daypack is extremely important to ensure that the pack fits you well. Almost all quality daypacks will have a hip belt to distribute the load evenly between your hips and shoulders. If the hip belt does not fit correctly, the weight distribution will be off. This can lead to discomfort and even pain on extended trips. Women should try to stick to a daypack designed specifically for a women’s frame to ensure a comfortable fit. Most vendors will report a range of torso lengths that a specific pack is designed to fit.

To find your torso length, have a friend measure the distance from the top of your shoulder to the highest part of your hip bone, known as the iliac crest.  Then make sure your torso length is within the given torso range for a daypack to make sure you get the proper fit.

Panel Loading vs Top Loading Daypacks

Top-loading packs have one large compartment that is typically secured by a drawstring opening and flap at the top of the pack. are typically much larger and simpler in design than panel loader.  They are easier to load to capacity and can even be stuffed beyond the stated capacity. Cinch straps on the sides and top allow for gear to be compressed when the pack is not filled to the brim. The downside is that everything is in one large compartment, so keeping your gear organized and easily accessible can be a chore.

Panel loaders are similar to a school backpack with a large top loading zippered compartment.  Multiple compartments inside and outside differentiate panel loaders. The contents can easily be organized and accessed, making top loaders the most popular style of daypacks.

Hands-Free Hydration

With the countless features in today’s daypacks, perhaps the most important one is support for a hydration system. If you will be using the daypack for climbing, trail running, skiing or any other activity where you’ll get thirsty, you should consider dropping in on a hydration pack. These packs are compatible with a bladder inserted into it’s own pocket against the interior back of the pack. There is also a hose which clips to the shoulder strap for hands-free hydration. This system is nice if you don’t want to fumble around with a water bottle while running, hiking, wearing gloves or hanging on to the side of a mountain. They also make it much easier to carry more water since the bladder compresses as the water is drank.  Hydration specific packs come with a bladder and hose, but many daypacks are hydration compatible (bladder and hose sold separately).

A Few of our Favorite Hiking Daypacks

Dakine Session Hydrator Daypack
The best part about this daypack is the 2L reservoir with Quick Disconnect hose will keep you hydrated for 10-20 miles.  Great for few hours on your mountain bike or old school hike trip.  Breathable DriMesh® back panel and shoulder straps.  Armor carry straps. Padded MP3 pocket

Patagonia Refugio Backpack Lemon Lime
The Refugio is one of Patagonia’s best selling daypacks! We love the compression straps, the insulated-hydration reservoir and DWR finish.  Great as a school backpack or quick hiking daypack.  Air-flow mesh back panel and shoulder straps. Padded compartment good for a 17-inch laptop.  Microfleece-lined pocket for sunglasses and electronics.
Comes in Grecian Blue, Black, Forest Glen, Deep Mango


The North Face Recon Backpack
Most likely made for urban adventures, but it is equipped with enough technical features to let it double as a bona fide hiking daypack/backpack.
Large main compartment with padded laptop sleeve and hydration clip/port
Padded Airmesh back panel with Spine Channel

Stand Up Paddle Board Repair

Dings and cracks come with the paddle board territory for novices and experts alike. Stand up paddle (SUP) boards are pretty durable, but sometimes a deep ding is inevitable, especially on a windy day. While many dings are simply cosmetic, others are not. If you can see beyond the fiberglass layer inside the board, the board should not get wet as it will damage the center core.

Your brand new car is bound to get a scratch or two as well. It’s all relative and fortunately, the majority of SUP dings and cracks are easy to repair yourself. Depending on the damage size, we’ve outlined some tried and true DIY methods and supplies to repair your board. It’s always a good idea to bring a small repair kit when you’re hitting the water. Small repairs can be made on shore, so you can get back out paddling in no time. Check it out…

Clear Ding Tape
A clear adhesive tape specifically for board dings, clear ding tape is designed to seal up small cracks only. It’s easy to use and not messy at all. Just dry and clean the cracked area. Then, seal the tape over the crack making sure there are no air bubbles. Let it sit for at least 15 minutes in the sun before heading back in the water.

Quick Fix 
For a quick and dirty way to get back on the water, you can repair your board on the spot. Well, you’ll need to bring it back to land first! Put one to two pea size amounts of Quick Fix in the ding. Quick Fix is a pure resin, with no fiberglass pieces mixed in. This makes it extremely easy to manipulate and shape into the ding. Then cover with clear packaging tape making sure there are no air bubbles. After 15 minutes, removing packaging tape gel should create really good “quick fix!” Your board is now ready to get back on water. It is advisable at the end of the season, however, to have your ding professionally repaired if you choose the quick fix method.

Marine-Tex Epoxy
For larger dings, Marine-Tex Epoxy does wonders. It’s a malleable epoxy putty available from most hardware, auto or marine stores that adheres to the surface like no other. First use a razor or knife to cut away any lose or hanging glass. If necessary, you can even enlarge the gouge a bit allowing more room for the epoxy to fill the hole. Mix five parts epoxy resin to one part hardener. Fill the hole, let harden and smooth with a rasp file. Then, sand with wet sand paper for further smoothing.

Paint Touch Ups for Repairs
You can certainly add some color to your repair once it’s complete. Auto touch up paint that comes with a small brush inside works extremely well. Nail polish will work for bit, but can chip off over time.