Is My Broken Snowboard Covered Under Warranty?

The following information has been created to help you, our customer, by highlighting situations in which manufacturers will not honor the manufacturer warranty of a product (based on our experience). Please note that The House does not make the final decision in manufacturer warranty matters. It is the manufacturer’s decision whether a product meets the warranty qualifications.

Prior to returning your equipment to The House for warranty review, please use the following situations as a guide of what may not be covered. Along with the examples, we have provided some suggestions for quick fixes to the problems that you may be experiencing.

! Tip: All of the items carried by The House are backed by at least a one year manufacturer warranty. In some cases manufacturers back their products with at two-year or lifetime warranty period. If you are unsure if your item is still under warranty give us a call at 1-800-992-7245.

Click on the pictures to view examples!

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Board-to-Board Impact
As with a car door ding, these things happen all too often. You and your buddies are waiting for your turn in the lift line when some dude enters into the line a bit too fast and whacks into the back of your board. In some cases this will cause the board to chip and in extreme cases an impact with enough force may cause the edge to separate from the board. The easiest way to identify this type of damage is by the contact markings that are made from someone else’s edges. This type of damage is not covered by manufacturer’s warranty.

! House Tip: Try to pay attention to the people around you. Your buddies and others close by are usually the culprits causing the problems. And if someone does nick up your board, take a deep breath, understand it for the accident that it was. Then, lightly file down any rough spots around effected area so that these do not peel further and serve to aggravate the problem.

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Board-to-Object Impact
Damage to your snowboard is not always someone else’s fault. Most of the time you, as the rider, need to face the music. You may find yourself out riding the backcountry on a warm spring day with slightly less than ideal snow cover. It is exactly these types of conditions when the rocks, normally covered by snow, seem to find their way to the surface or lie in wait just beneath. As you cruise along, the base of your board may impact these rocks. The result of this impact may be simple base gouges, edge bending, or a separation of your edges away from the board. Tell tail signs of this type of damage are detected by a scratch (or scratches) on the bottom leading to, or originating from, the affected area of the board.

This is definitely an unfortunate mishap and one that all who have ventured into the backcountry or cut through some trees have incurred. However, this type of damage is not covered by manufacturer’s warranty.

! House Tip: Take your time and check out the line you’re going to take before heading down. Know your snow depth and terrain! This is not only the safe route, but it is also the least costly way to ride. If you do bang up the board, see if your local shop can fix it up – you’d be surprised what a little epoxy and a set of clamps can take care of.

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Rails, Boxes, and Natural Terrain
Freestyle snowboarding is a huge part of the today’s riding scene. Rail riding is now commonplace and has become very popular. All riders should be aware that any time your board comes in contact with a solid structure of any kind, the manufacturer will not warranty any damage or wear to your board.
Structures can cause serious damage to your board including: scratches, bending, denting, rolling, or the edge completely separating from the board.

Rolling or separating your edge on a rail or any object is commonly a result of not having your board totally centered on a rail when initially hitting it. Bending or denting your rail occurs by coming up short on a rail and slamming the edge of you board into the rail. This type of damage is not covered by manufacturer’s warranty.

! House Tip #1: Keep your eyes open. Watch out for trees, poles, mountain goats or any other objects that could damage your board.
! House Tip #2: If your base takes a gouge, grab some P-tex and fill it in. And if your edges get scratched or worn, a file will work miracles.

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“Nose-Dive” Nose Breaks
In this scenario, let’s say that you’re having a great day in the park. You decide to hit the big kicker and go for a corked 900. The only problem is that you miss the cork and bury the nose of the board into the top of the jump. In doing so the impact of your unplanned landing causes the nose or tail to flex backward; or in essence under itself. Structurally this is not the direction that a snowboard was designed to flex and this force will ultimately break it. If you bend the board in such a manner other than the designers had intended, the board will break. This type of damage is not covered by manufacturer’s warranty.

! House Tip: Know your limits and your landing. Your board is designed to flex a certain way and it’s not backwards. Manufacturers won’t warranty this type of break.

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Intentional Abuse
Now we know that customers of The House would never do this, but it is widely known within the industry that some individuals will try to completely destroy their snowboards it in hopes of getting it covered under manufacturer warranty. This will not work.
Breaking the board more than it had already been damaged is a common tactic used by some riders. This type of damage is not covered by manufacturer’s warranty.

! House Tip: Don’t do it! Duh!

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“The Boot Sheath”
Anybody who has snowboarded knows that your back foot must be taken out of the binding when riding up on the lift. In doing so the weight of the board is put on your front foot and leg. What a pain, literally! The tension on your leg forces you to alleviate the pressure any way you can, and the easiest way is to rest your board on your back foot. Who knew that your back foot is nature’s perfect board rest? When you do this however, you are sawing away at the top of your boot. Your board has a 90-degree metal edge that can easily cut through your boot. This type of damage is not covered by manufacturer’s warranty.

! House Tip: This wear on your back boot is the most common boot problem that manufacturers see. The House, as well as every retailer out there, sells lace protectors that attach to your back boot to counteract this problem. However if you like to gamble with your $100+ boot by saving $4, a quick solution (until you come to your senses) is to put the toe of your back boot under the heel-cup of your rear binding. Either way you look at it, it’s all about the lace protector.
* The information concerning warranty is for information purposes only. It does not create or imply a warranty separate from or in addition to the manufacturer’s warranty. In all cases, the provisions of the manufacturer’s warranty shall control the final decision.

How to Wax and Tune a Snowboard

Waxing and tuning a snowboard is essential to the performance you will get out of it. If you don’t wax your snowboard before going to ride you are just cutting yourself short. Tuning includes waxing, sharpening the edges and a few other things. To tune the board first take off the bindings. This will make the process much easier because the board needs to be flipped upside down. Tuning vices will also make the process much easier, but they are not necessary.

The first step in tuning a snowboard is to sharpen the edges. The easiest way to sharpen edges is to use a file guide. A file guide will keep the file at the same angle for every swipe along the entire length of the board. Most file guides will have an angle indicator on them that you can set the degree of the edge for different riding styles. Complete as many swipes as needed but only swipe the file in one direction, not up and down.

Freestyle riders will want to be detuning their edges rather than making them sharper. A regular file will be used for this. Sharp edges will be much more likely to catch on rails and boxes and can cause injury to the rider. Detuning is rounding the edges and making them smooth. Whether sharpening or detuning the edges it should only take a couple passes to get the desired edges.

How to Wax a Snowboard

Once the edges are sharp then the base should be waxed.

What supplies you’ll need:

  • A work area, preferably a garage or workshop space. Sometimes waxing can get a little messy.
  • A waxing specific iron. Don’t use your home iron. Once you use an iron for waxing you can’t use it again to iron clothes. Wax specific irons come with a flat base (as opposed to steam vents) and temperature settings that are ideal for melting snowboard and ski wax.
  • Snowboard or Ski Wax
  • A Scraper
  • A Base Brush/Buffer
  • Base Cleaner
  • A phillips-head screwdriver (For loosening or taking off your bindings prior to waxing).

Shop The House for Snowboard Waxing and Tuning Supplies.

Waxing Snowboard - Supplies 1

Wax Off

The first step to applying new wax to a snowboard is to remove the old wax. Wax remover is usually a citrus solvent like base cleaner. Simply spray it over the base and wipe it off. If you don’t have any, run a hot iron over the base, apply a thin layer of wax, and then scrape instantly.When riding on man-made snow or in spring conditions a lot of buildup can gather on the base of a snowboard. It is important to get all the dirt off before applying new wax. Removing old wax is also very important if you are using temperature specific waxes. If changing from a cold weather wax to a warm weather you don’t want any of the old stuff to be left over on the base.

Wax On

The easiest and quickest way to apply new wax is to use a rub on. These waxes will work best on extruded bases that are not very porous. Rub on waxes will usually use a sponge to apply them, or if they are a bar of wax just rub the bar evenly over the entire base. These bars of rub on wax will normally have a cork to even it out once applied. Rub on waxes work okay, but the best option for waxing is by far a hot wax.

Hot waxing your snowboard will bring out the best performance and allow the base to glide much faster over the snow. A hot wax will penetrate further into the base and last much longer. Boards with sintered bases should only use hot wax because this base is much more porous and will absorb much of the wax. If a sintered base is not hot waxed regularly its performance will significantly depreciate. Applying hot wax will require an iron. Regular clothing irons might work but they will without a doubt be ruined. Clothing irons have steam holes that will get plugged with wax among other flaws for waxing purposes. Snowboard wax specific irons will work best because they will have certain heat settings for different kinds of waxes, they will be solid across the bottom with no holes for wax to get into and they will have a certain shape that will glide over a snowboard base.

Many snowboarders will prefer to use an all temperature wax in case of dramatic spikes in the weather from day to day. Temperature specific waxes will be used mostly by racers that will tune their board distinctively for the conditions the day of the race. Also a fluorinated wax will be best because it will penetrate in to the base better and the result is it will last longer and it will be faster.

Once the iron is heated touch the wax directly to the iron so that the wax will begin to melt and drip onto the base of the board. Drip the wax over the entire base focusing most of the wax on the edges of the board. The edges are going to be much drier because they have more contact with the snow and get used more heavily. Just a couple lines up and down the edges and a quick zig zag down the center should be enough. It does not take much wax to cover the base, but do make sure there is enough to cover the whole area.

When applying wax also take into consideration what type of base the board has. Because a sintered base is more porous than an extruded base it is going to absorb a larger amount of wax. Once the wax is dripped on to the base simply rub the iron over the base. Your goal here is to re-melt the drops of wax and even them out over the base. The nose and tail are not as important in the waxing process because they have much less contact with the snow. Really focus on the outer edges and underneath the bindings. The more even the wax is over the board the faster it will be.

Once you have smoothed the wax over the base look it over to make sure that there are no areas that don’t have wax on it or are kind of thin. The edges may require more wax because they will absorb more. If they still look dry don’t be afraid to add more wax. It is impossible to put too much wax on because all the excess is going to be scraped off. Too much excess wax will simply create more work when scraping.

Scrape and Smooth

Once the wax has been applied and smoothed out let it cool down. This may take 15 or 20 minutes. The goal is to let the board return to room temperature. This will let the pores completely absorb the wax and will give you better results. You don’t want to rush scraping hot wax or the process won’t work as well.

To scrape the board, first start with the edges by running the scraper over the base at around a 45 degree angle with a lot of pressure applied. Run the scraper in long even strokes and not in short back and forth motions. This will make the wax more even and faster on the snow. The main goal of a hot wax is to get wax into the pores. Any excess left on the base will slow the board down. So put as much pressure on the scraper as needed to get all the excess off.

Run your hand over the base to feel if there are any areas that have wax left on it. Racers have a saying that is “thin to win” the thinner the excess wax on your base is the faster your board will be. All the wax your base needs is in the pores.

Once all the extra wax has been removed you will want to use a Scotch-Brite pad or Fiber Tech that will help to remove any leftover wax. It will force more wax into the pores and will help to leave it really smooth and even. A pad for this purpose will often be included in a lot of tuning kits. A good way to save money on getting equipment to tune a snowboard is to buy it all together in a kit. Some will incorporate everything including the iron and they will have a case to keep it all together. Being able to tune and wax your own snowboard will also save you a lot of money. Having a shop do it for you will often cost around $20- $30.

Buff It Out

This should complete the wax, but to get an extra nice finish on the wax a cloth can be used to buff over it. You can also add texture to the wax which will create channels that will wick water away from the base when riding. Texture will break up the surface tension and decrease suction between the base and snow and make the board more slippery. To do this use a horsehair or brass brush and run it diagonally across the board.

Shop for wax and tuning tools and snowboards.

How To Detune a Snowboard

A lot of freestyle riders will want to detune their edges to prevent them from catching on rails and boxes. Most freestyle boards will come from the factory already detuned as part of their finishing process. But in case they aren’t there are a few tips to be aware of before taking a file to the edges.

A detune that almost every rider should do is rounding off or smoothing out the edges at the nose and tail. The area to detune will be all the way around the nose and tail to the widest point of the board and then a little over an inch in beyond that. This part of the snowboard’s edge is not used to carve or for grip so having it sharp can essentially cause more harm than good.

To go about detuning this edge use a regular file and run it around the edge at about a 45 degree angle. After that, run the file over the edge again at a shallower angle, and one more time after that at a deeper angle. Another way to detune this section of the egde is, with the base facing up, push the file down over the edge and do that all the way around. Basically what is trying to accomplished is to create a smooth surface. The goal is to take away that sharpness from the edge and make the edge rounded.

Once the edge has been rounded with the file it will most likely have burrs, or little nicks or imperfections. To smooth them out a diamond stone or a gummy stone can be used. With a smooth edge the board will ride faster in the snow and provide a more even ride.

The next way to detune edges is one that aggressive terrain park riders will use. The snowboarders that are going to be riding a lot of rails, boxes and other features are going to want rounded edges so they are not catching and causing them to fall and possibly get hurt. The area to detune for this purpose is in between the bindings. The process to detune this area is the same as the last, but it is for a much different reason.

Detuning this area will cause the rider to lose a significant amount of grip for carving and freeriding. Riding a detuned board like this in icy conditions will be difficult. If the rider is just learning boxes and rails it is best to take just a little bit of the edge of to start and slowly take off more as they progress.

If the board is going to be used strictly for rails and boxes it is fine to completely take off the edge the whole running length of the board. How the board is detuned is up the rider and what style of riding they anticipate they will be doing.

How To Mount a Stomp Pad & Leash

Leashes and a stomp pads are not essential to every snowboarder but they can be very beneficial, and to mount them on the board is very simple. A leash’s purpose is to attach the rider to the board just in case the board should come detached from the rider.The leash will prevent the board from sliding downhill without the rider, but the board detaching from a rider like this is very rare. There are many variations of leashes but most will attach to the binding and have a clasp that attaches to the boot laces. Some will attach to the board and wrap around the leg and yet others will attach to the board and the boot and have a clasp in the middle of the strap.

To attach the leash to the binding, loop the end through the adjustment holes of either one of the straps, or some bindings will have openings in the baseplate that the leash can be looped through. When attaching the leash to the boot it is important to clip it to the section of laces that are not going to be underneath the straps of the bindings. The best area would be between the ankle and toe strap.

Leashes are rarely ever actually put to use. In the extreme cases where the board would become detached from the rider’s feet it is most likely that the boot and binding would rip out of the board. Since it is the binding and the boot that are attached and not the board, the leash really doesn’t serve any purpose. It is because of this that many ski resorts don’t require leashes any more. But it is a good idea to at least carry one in your pocket on the off chance that you should come to a hill or lift operator that will still require them.

A stomp pad’s purpose is to create more grip for the rider when the rear foot is out of the binding. Most of its use will be at the bottom of the lift and getting off. It can also be used for any one footed freestyle tricks so that the foot won’t slip off the top of the board when trying to maneuver it. The stomp pad will be placed just in front of the rear binding so that the foot will be able to rest against the outside of the binding which will also create more control and stability when not strapped in.

To mount the stomp pad on the board make sure that the board surface is clean and dry. The board should be at room temperature or possibly even heat it up with a hair dryer. The back, adhesive side, of the stomp pad should also be heated before mounting it on the board. This heat is going to activate the adhesive and create a better bond between the stomp pad and the board. The stomp pad should be positioned within about an inch from the rear binding. Start with one corner of the stomp pad and roll it onto the board. Once the stomp pad is on, press it down as hard as possible and try to remove any air bubbles. Let the adhesive dry anywhere from 12 to 24 hours.

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